The Bug With The Tug

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The Stillwater River, East and West Rosebud River:

The first hatch of the year is the Mother's Day caddis hatch (Brown Caddis, #14-16). This can be a very fishable hatch depending on weather and water conditions. There may be mayfly hatches (Baetis, #16, March Browns, #14) in April, May which are usually short-lived, but very productive. When no hatches are apparent, a double nymph rig (scroll down for a description) is extremely productive. Don't forget LaFontaine's Emergent Sparkle Pupa (Brown/Tan, #14).

Now comes spring runoff and with it, stonefly hatches. Though not true "Salmonfly" streams, these rivers support huge populations of Golden Stones and Yellow Sallies. If the water clears by late June and warms to near 50 degrees F, fishing these hatches is absolutely unbelievable. The West Rosebud, controlled by the Mystic Lake Powerplant, is a "gem in the rough" at this time. The bugs last about 3 weeks, the Goldens appearing, then disappearing first. Look for nymphal shucks at the water's edge or around bridge abutments at water level. The hatches are best on calm, sunny afternoons. Adult female stoneflies "land" on the water's surface to lay eggs. This requires a calm day. Some think windy days are best; this is true only if the wind blows randomly, or "gusts"; stoneflies compensate for a steady breeze. Most anglers use Yellow or Green Stimulators (#8-10) to imitate the Goldens, and Elk Hair Caddis (#12-14) for the Sallies. A small mayfly hatch also occurs at this time, and one would be well advised to carry a few Red Quills (#14) in upstream sections of these streams.

In mid-July, a major caddis hatch begins lasting about 3 weeks. The hatch is best on calm, cloudy afternoons; by evening the adults are everywhere. The hot fly at this time is LaFontaine's Emergent Sparkle Pupa (Brown/Creme, #14). Use a double nymph rig (scroll down for a description), both nymphs the same pattern, 9'-12' leader tapered to 5X.

A PMD hatch comes off in mid/late-July and can be great dry fly fishing. When trying to match any hatch on these streams, it's best to be in a boat unless you have an exact location in mind. When float fishing, always plan your trip to allow a few stops "just in case". Watch carefully for hatching insects; they're usually confined to certain stretches.

A hatch of Brown Drakes also occurs in July, usually heaviest on the upper reaches of these streams. The preferred fly is a Mahogany Parachute (#12), but a Brown Wulff will usually do the job. This hatch progresses upstream and lasts a couple of weeks. This is a big, dark brown mayfly, hard to miss. The hatch is best on calm, sunny days; it starts around lunch and can last well into the afternoon. This is the probably the easiest mayfly hatch to fish; the bugs are big and the fish are rising!

By late July, trout start looking for grasshoppers. Although this "hatch" is fairly consistent, some years are better than others. Cold winters don't mean much, but a cool, wet spring is welcomed by ranchers and despised by guides. Some good hopper flies are Dave's Hopper, Parachute Hopper, Madame X, Sponge Bob, Elk Hair Hopper, and Joe's Hopper (all #6-10). In good years, hoppers are common in this area for 4-6 weeks. The fish will attack the flies at the beginning of hopper season, but become wary after a couple of weeks. Use a hopper-dropper rig (scroll down for a description) to overcome this wariness.

In late September, brookies (in the mountains) and browns (downstream) begin to spawn. We seldom fish these streams in the fall, preferring instead to fish larger, more fertile rivers (Yellowstone, Bighorn).

Other patterns deserve special mention. Attractor dries such as the Royal Wulff (#10-12), Royal Trude (#12), and various Humpys (#12) are a must. The venerable Adams Parachute (#12, #18) should also be in one's fly box. Nymphs are extremely productive in standard and beadhead styles. Hare's Ear (#14-16), Prince (#14), and Pheasant Tail (#14) nymphs work well. Woolly Buggers and Matuka-style streamers also work well. When fishing streamers, use an across-and-down method and concentrate on any structure.

Notes: Before entering the water, sit and survey. Always look carefully for any hatching insects. State Fishing Access sites are heavily fished, and by mid-July one should obtain access (ask permission) from the locals. Floating is done on the Stillwater (below Nye) but not on the East or West Rosebud.
 

The Yellowstone River:

The first hatch we fish is the Mother's Day caddis hatch. Everything in the river feeds on these insects, trout or whitefish, large or small. A Brown or Grey Deer Hair Caddis (#12) produces, as well as a LaFontaine Emergent Sparkle Pupa (Brown/Tan, #14). We fish both flies at once, the dry as the upper "indicator" fly and the nymph as the lower "dropper" fly on a 12' leader tapered to 5X.

As an undammed river (there are very few left), the Yellowstone is subject to changes in temperature, depth, and discoloration. Spring runoff, although different each year, generally results in cold, muddy water in June. As soon as the water starts to clear and recede (usually early July), big fish can be had on streamers. Make no mistake: fishing is not fast and furious, but when a trout strikes, it's usually over (sometimes well over) 20". This is probably the best time of the season to hook a trophy. Use a weighted, light-colored fly cast from a boat toward either bank. Concentrate your efforts on the upstream end of small/medium-sized pools created by seams along the bank. My favorite fly is a large, white Woolly Bugger (#2) with pearlescent ribbing.

As the water clears, trout start looking up. In a good year, by mid-July water clarity is 2'-3' and floating objects are beginning to cast shadows on the bottom. Black Stone nymphs (#4-6) are great, but adult stonefly imitations on sunny afternoons can't be beat. Casting big, visible dries to hungry trout? Who can resist! The best pattern is a Twisted Yarn Body (orange) stonefly with a dark brown hackle (#6). Where there are no stoneflies, try a Royal Wulff (#8). Fish nymphs or streamers if dries won't produce.

As the water clears even further, the bottom of the river begins to appear. A good Trico (#20) hatch begins in late July and lasts 2-3 weeks. Caddis hatches in mid/late-July can be huge. Fish the double nymph rig using Lafontaine Emergent Sparkle Pupa (Brown/Tan, #14) on calm, sunny afternoons and hold on tight. Where there are no caddis, try a Royal Trude (#8). Again, fish nymphs or streamers if dries won't produce.

Which nymphs and streamers? Nymphs: Hare's Ear (#12, #16), Bead-Head Prince(#12), Montana (#8), Bitch Creek (#6), Yuk Bug (#6), LaFontaine Emergent Sparkle Pupa (Brown/Tan, #14), Black Stone (#8). Streamers: Woolly Bugger (#2-6), Muddler Minnow (#4), Light Spruce (#4).

By August, the bottom of the river is apparent. Also apparent are the grasshoppers. Dry fly fishing from a boat at this time of year can be world-class. Use Elk Hair Hoppers (#8), Parachute Hoppers (#8), Dave's Hoppers (#6), Sponge Bobs (#6), Madame X's (#6), and Joe's Hoppers (#8). A couple of weeks into August, trout become wary. Try a hopper-dropper rig (scroll down for a description) to overcome this wariness. The course of this river changes each season, so fish dropoffs, runs, riffles, etc. as they become fishable. If no hoppers are about, fish this same structure with nymphs or streamers.

Big, weighted streamers are used during the brown trout spawning run in the fall. Keep in mind that spawning areas are not usually feeding lies. Streamers are usually fished on the downstream 2/3 of most runs. Wade fish the flies using an across-and-down method. Although black, brown, and grey Woolly Buggers produce most of the time, don't forget Dan Baily's weighted Muddler Minnow.

Notes: The Yellowstone is subject to wet, rainy weather, especially in Yellowstone Park. It can "mud up" almost overnight.  Wind (another bad four-letter word) can be intense. The lower Yellowstone can warm to above 70 degrees F in late August, particularly during a hot, dry summer. This can drive trout upstream, often well above Columbus, MT. In August and September, water temperature below 70 degrees F generally means better fishing. The river has good access and is usually best fished in mid-week from a raft or drift boat.
 

The Bighorn River:

In June, this is Montana's premier nymph fishery. Nymphs such as the Soft Hackle Sow Bug (#16), Chenille Worm (#12), Coral Scud (#14), Hare's Ear (#16), Pheasant Tail (#18), Ray Charles (#18), and Brassie (#18) are all productive. Use a double nymph rig (scroll down for a description), 9' or longer, tapered to 5X. There is also a tremendous Blue Winged Olive (#20) hatch at this time, best in early morning or on cloudy days. Streamers also work well if fished early in the day to ensure "fresh" water.

In July, the Bighorn gets even better. Nymphs continue to work well; the Soft Hackle Sow Bug is the default fly. Pale Morning Duns (#14) begin a large hatch. About a week later, Yellow Sallies (#14) arrive. Both hatches offer superb dry fly fishing. Caddis (Black  #18, Brown #14) begin emerging in late July; these hatches peak in August and also offer excellent fishing.

Nymphs continue to produce until the river becomes so choked with moss, it is rendered unfishable. Moss can make fishing in September an exercise in frustration, so we usually concentrate our efforts on freestone streams (Yellowstone, Stillwater).

As the moss subsides, Bighorn browns start moving, beginning to spawn. Streamer fishing is outstanding (really!) at this time (Oct 15), and can last as long as 3-4 weeks. Again, concentrate your casts on the lower 2/3 of most runs. The Bighorn is open year round and local anglers fish here on warm days all winter using Pheasant Tail Nymphs (#14-18), Soft Hackle Sow Bugs (#16), Griffith's Gnats (#20), Woolly Buggers (#6), and Bighorn Specials (#4).

Notes: Moss is the name of the game on the Bighorn. The river resembles a huge spring creek; the closer you fish to Afterbay Dam, its starting point, the less moss you'll find. When floating, the "Upper Three" is usually great, Three Mile Fishing Access (Lind Access) to Bighorn Fishing Access (12 miles downstream) is generally fantastic, and Bighorn Fishing Access to Mallard's Landing Fishing Access (23 miles downstream) is, for the most part, beyond expectations. All this is tempered by the content of moss in the water. The 'Horn is usually at its worst in late August/September, but otherwise great. The Bighorn is crowded on weekends, not bad in mid-week.

The Double Nymph Rig:

The double nymph rig is composed of a 7 1/2'-12' leader, tapered to 3X-5X depending on conditions. Use a strike indicator at the fly line (floating)/leader connection and a suitable amount of weight (a "BB" sized split shot) about 18" from the end of the leader. Attach the first, usually larger nymph (#10-14, Hare's Ear, Prince, Pheasant Tail, Brown Stone, Chenille Worm, etc.), then attach a smaller trailing nymph (#14-18, Hare's Ear, Scud, Ray Charles, Prince, Midge Larvae, Pheasant Tail, Brassie, Sow Bug, Caddis Pupa or Midge Larvae attached to an 18" piece of 5X-6X tippet) directly to the bend of the first fly. Beadhead patterns are especially effective.

The Hopper-Dropper Rig:

The hopper-dropper rig is essentially a dropper fly setup. Use a floating line with a 9'-12' leader tapered to 4X. Attach your favorite large grasshopper pattern (dry fly). Attach a 30" piece of 5X tippet directly to the bend of the first fly. Use a Steve's Beadhead Hopper (scroll down for tying directions) or a  Joe's Hopper and attach it to the tippet. Apply a normal amount of floatant to the first fly. Don't use floatant on the second fly. Don't use any weight.

The Across-and-Down Method:

The classic method for fishing wet flies works fine for streamers too. With a few modifications. Use a sink-tip line and a beadhead or leadhead streamer. Cast the fly upstream from your position and mend upstream as soon as the fly hits the water. Gain control of your line. By the time your fly is directly across the river from you, it should be on or near the bottom. Hold on very tight.

Sow Bug

Woolly Bugger

Steve's Beadhead Hopper

LaFontaine's Emergent Sparkle Pupa

Mahogany Parachute

Attach the tail, then the wing. Attach the hackles (don't wind yet) at the base of the wing, then go back to the tail and dub in the body. Then wind each hackle around the wing seperately. Leave enough room to dub a small "head" just behind the eye of the hook, then form a head and tie off with at least four half hitches. Apply a liberal amount of cement to the head of the fly and a drop to the hackle/wing connection. When fishing, look carefully for these mayflies. They are usually confined to upper stretches of local streams, moving upstream day-by-day (mid-late July).

Mike's Hopper

Tie in the tail and a cropped (1/4") brown hackle. Then attach a 1" section of Rainy's Float Foam (yellow, medium thick). Cut Foam at a 45 degree angle. Also cut Foam on the bottom to allow to fit over hook. Keeping the long point of the 45 up, use super glue gel to attach body to the hook. Palmer wrap the cropped hackle to the front of the body. Stack some yellow deer hair and tie to the top of the hook shank to form an underwing. Then stack some natural elk hair and tie in using a reverse direction. Tie to the eye of the hook, then pull the elk hair back to form a bullet head. Try to keep the hair on top of the hook shank. When finished, the natural elk hair should extend to 3/4 the length of the yellow underwing. This fly floats well, cuts thru the air when casting, is easy to tie, and catches lots of fish. It's also a great fly for the "hopper-dropper" rig. Scroll down to see a complete list of the flies we use.

Dry Flies

Nymphs

Streamer Flies